Replacing a door

How to Replace a Door

Replacing a door is a big project but is still within the capabilities of most do-it-yourself  guys. Take care when handling the door not to damage or disturb the door frame or the trim.

These instructions can only be general as each time the problems  will be unique and require its own solution. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific product you are using.

OUTSIDE DOORS

  • Outside doors can become damaged or unsightly because of exposure to the weather and other outside elements. The door posts can also become loose and need serious attention before a new door is hung. Firstly check that the frame or post that the door is expected to hang out of is secure and does not move. Secondly check that the door frame is square. Then remove all door blocks carefully and remove the nails or pins used to hold them. (These block the door from swinging in both directions).
  • Also be aware of how the old door fits the frame, if there is a gap at the top or the bottom, and check the sides.
  • These blocks are re nailed back on when the door is in the closed position this ensures that the door has no gaps all the way around and give a better look the finished job. Alternatively replacing them with new ones makes the job a finer one but does require painting afterwards.
  • To remove the original door, open it and place a wedge under the outer corner, taking the weight off the hinges.
  • Most doors have four screws on each side of the hinge attaching one half to the door and the other half to the door frame Start at the bottom hinge and remove all the screws, work your way up to the top hinge thus removing the door..
  • Next, remove the hinges from the door or frame. It is probably better to install new hinges along with the new door. If so, make sure the new hinges are the same size as the old ones. If the original hinges are in good condition, you can brighten them with fine sandpaper and spray them with a clear protective coating. This will give the hinges a “like-new” appearance.
  • Reinstall the hinges on the door frame, using screws that are long enough to go through the frame and grip well into the stud-wall framing as a security measure.
  • If the original door is usable as a pattern, place it on the new door, carefully aligning the top and side edges. The new door may need to be cut down slightly; mark the difference along the bottom of the old door. If the old door is not suitable for this purpose, measure the door opening, allowing a 1/8″ clearance at the bottom (3/4″ or more if the door opens over carpeting) and 1/16″ at the top and sides. Transfer these dimensions to the new door.
  • Trim the bottom of the door, using a suitable circular saw (electric of course).
  • Use a jack plane to trim the edges as needed. Bevel the latch edge of the door slightly inward–this helps to prevent binding when the door is opened.
  • Mark the location of the hinge mortises on the edge of the door, place the new door in the opening, wedging it 1/8″ from the bottom and mark the hinge locations on the door.
  • Now set the door on its latch edge. With a try square or combination square and a sharp pencil or knife, mark a line across the door edge at each hinge location, then use the hinge leaf as a template to outline the hinge on the door. This indicates the location of the hinge mortises.
  • With a sharp wood chisel, score around the marked edges for the mortises. Be careful that you don’t cut more deeply than the thickness of the hinge leaf.
  • Nearly all interior and exterior doors are taller than 6′. They require three hinges to properly distribute the weight. The middle hinge should be halfway between the top and bottom hinges.
  • Coat all edges of the door with wood sealant to shut out moisture.
  • Attach the hinges to the door with wood screws.
  • Place the door in the frame Check its fitting correctly. If it’s satisfactory, close the door and mark the location of the middle hinge on the door frame.
  • If there were three hinges on the original door, your middle hinge should use the same door frame mortise as the old hinge.
  • Set the door in place finally, insert and tighten all the screws working top to bottom.

THE LOCK

  • Your new door deserves a new lock. Your local supplier carries a wide variety of attractive styles. Any type you purchase will come with detailed manufacturer’s directions for installation and paper templates to guide you in boring the necessary holes in the door and the door edge. The door edge is mortised.
  • Try to align the new lock with the existing strike plate in the door frame. If the latch bolt of the new lock does not fit into the strike plate, align the unit so that the new strike plate can be installed in the existing mortise in the door frame. You can enlarge the mortise to accommodate the new plate, if needed. If the existing mortise is too large, install the new strike plate and fill in any extra space with wood putty.
  • For added security, you should seriously consider putting in a deadbolt. Install it following the manufacturer’s directions for the model you purchase.
  • Another security precaution is a peephole. This allows you to see who is calling before opening the door. The peephole should be installed at the eye level of the shortest person who will be using it (obviously not a small child). Cut a hole using an electric drill. The hardware is then passed through the hole and secured by a flanged ring nut.

INTERIOR DOORS

  • Techniques for replacing most interior doors are the same as for outside doors. The locks are usually much simpler, There may be no locking mechanism at all, just door-knobs and a latch bolt to hold the door closed.
Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

Leave a comment »

CREAKING STAIRS

Central heating dries out the timber in floors and stairs and causes squeaks and creaks. If you can reach the underneath of your stairs, it’s a relatively straightforward job to solve the problem.

First stand under the stairs and ask someone to walk up them so that you can see the movement and mark the loose or moving boards.

1. Replace the wedges

Often the thin wedges that are between the upright pieces or risers as well as the treads have worked loose and even dropped out altogether.

Remove the wedges underneath each problem board and use an old chisel to remove as much of the dry glue as possible. Spread a generous amount of glue along both sides of the wedges and push the wedge back into its place. Use a mallet not a hammer ( as it damages the wedge) to tap the pieces firmly into place again.

Wedges on risers and treads

Wedges on risers and treads

Tip: To make new wedges saw thin angled pieces of new timber to replace any missing wedges.

Blocks screwed and glued

Blocks screwed and glued

2. Replace the triangular blocks

The stairs may also be missing triangular glue blocks along the joint between the risers and treads. Look for areas of lighter coloured wood to show where the blocks have come loose. Saw some new triangular blocks around 75mm (3in) long. Use a piece of 50mm (2in) square timber and cut diagonally along its length to make the blocks. Fix to the stairs with PVA glue and one or two panel pins or screws to hold in place while the glue is drying.

3. Fixing a stair from above

Screwing the treads to the riser

Screwing the treads to the riser

If the underneath of the stairs is inaccessible and has been plasterboarded, you may be able to reduce the creaking by making clearance holes in the front of the stair tread and screwing into the riser beneath to tighten the joint.

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

Leave a comment »

GLUES OR ADHESIVES

Where two pieces of material ( wood, metal, stone, plastic, paper etc) are required to be joined then the best method of accomplishing this is with adhesives, in conjunction with screws, nails or other fasteners.

Adhesives come in many forms too numerous to mention

A few of the more common types of adhesives include:

Polyvinyl (carpenter’s wood glue). This is a white and creamy liquid and comes in plastic bottles. Primarily used for furniture, or woodworking, it sets in an hour, dries clear doesn’t stain but is vulnerable to moisture.

Resorcinol and formaldehyde. These are mixed just prior to using and can be used from two to four hours after mixing, it must be used at temperatures over 21 degrees C. Both the resin (powdered resorcinol) and the powdered formaldehyde that you mix with water are brown and will stain light wood. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. be careful using.

Contact cements. These are used to bond veneers or to bond plastic laminates to wood for table tops and counters. Coat both surfaces thinly and allow to dry out a little or get tacky before bonding. Align the surfaces perfectly before pressing together as this adhesive will not pull apart. Use in a well-ventilated area.

Epoxy. Epoxy is the only adhesive with a strength greater than the material it bonds. It resists almost anything from water to solvents. Epoxy can be used to fill cavities that would otherwise be difficult to bond. Use it in warm temperatures, but read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, since drying times vary and mixing the resin and hardener must be exact.

Tips on Bonding

  1. With the exception of epoxy, too much adhesive will weaken the hold of the materials you are bonding.
  2. Rough up smooth surfaces slightly (with sandpaper) before applying adhesives so they will grip more securely.
  3. Apply a thin coat of glue, clamp securely, and allow to dry the.
  4. Wipe away excess glue with a cloth immediately after clamping.

Leave a comment »

GOING ON HOLIDAY? The things you gotta do..

It’s that time of the year when we pack our bags and take to the hills, beaches, and cities.  Trains, planes and automobiles.  But, there’s so much planning in advance of the trip – clear the intray, re-direct email, sort the clothes and packing, check the passport validity (usually the night before!) – that sometimes it seems so much trouble that all we want to do is just get up a little later and do a few day trips from home.  What’s more, we often neglect some basic security around our homes before we lockup and wave goodbye to the homestead. And, a few simple pre-holiday tasks will make the homecoming so much sweeter.

So, here are a few simple tips to get your holiday off to a grand start.

  • Turn off your water at the stopcock, usually located under the sink in the kitchen . This limits any possible damage from leaks. This is much more important for winter trips, particularly like the one just past, when we had severe freezing.
  • Empty the bins (great when you return). Who needs a swarm of flies or a skulk of foxes checking your leftovers whilst you bask in the sun?
  • Secure any sheds at the back and lock the side entrance.
  • Programme one of your lights to come on in the evenings. Do a test run to make sure that it works and your are leaving an electricity supply to it – see comment on electricity below.
  • Inform a (friendly) neighbour and ask him/her to remove that tell-tale marketing bumph from the door step.  If they are really friendly they might keep an eye on the place, feed the cats, walk the dog – you wish.  BUT, remember they do will be going on hols at some point and you can return the favour.  We all want to live in safe, secure and friendly communities.
  • Turn off the electricity at the fusebox except where you require constant electricity then just turn off everything else. 
  • Put some bread and milk in the freezer in case of a late return.  Let’s keep the holiday good will factor for as long as possible!

 

Bon Voyage.

Jobjar's to-do list before you go on holiday

Jobjar's to-do list before you go on holiday

Leave a comment »

CHANGING A FUSE IN A KITCHEN APPLIANCE

These days, or at least in the Celtic Tiger era, we got into the bad habit of throwing things out when they didn’t work anymore – like the electric kettle.  It’s so easy and cheap these days to pick up a new toaster for €15 at your local supermarket that sometimes it’s an easier option than trying to identify and fix the problem.  But, we have to think about the environmental impact too – where do all those broken kettles and toasters go? Landfill!

Led fuse

Led fuse

Sometimes, a replacement fuse will sort it out.  It’s easy but again, take care: anything with electricity requires care and caution.  Below is an 8 step guide on replacing fuses in kitchen appliances.

1.    It is very important to select the correct fuse for a particular appliance. Putting in a stronger fuse is not the answer!
2.    When one buys a square pin plug (13A) it has a 13 amp fuse which can carry most of the electricity in your house.
3.    When replacing a fuse in an electrical device, first determine the POWER consumed by the device, written in W(Watts) or KW.
4.    Secondly, calculate the current by dividing the Power by 240Volts: this will tell you the actual current consumed by the device.
5.    Example 1: What fuse do I require for a 1 KiloWatt heater?. Note 1KWatt = 1000 Watts, Therefore- 1000W/240V = 4.16 Amps current.
6.    The nearest fuse is either a 3A or a 5A?. The 3A is slightly below the operating level but it’s safe.
7.    Although 3A is the best fuse for this job the next best is the 5A bus not the fuse that came with the plug.
8.    Another Example: an Electric Kettle. Its rating is 1850W. 1850W/240V = 7.7 Amps. The fuse to use would be 5A.

If replacing the fuse is just one of a number of jobs that you need to sort around the house, why don’t you put your list in your jobjar and give me a call.  I’ll travel anywhere in the greater Dublin area: Alan Rafter, Jobjar, 087 6617271.

Leave a comment »

THAT BROKEN DOORBELL

Jobjar's guide to checking your broken doorbell

Jobjar's guide to checking your broken doorbell

Most of the houses I call to have doorbells that don’t work or are in poor condition.  Usually, all that is needed is a little attention and time to repair.
Warning: BE SAFE: Messing around with electricity is dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing. It is always better to seek professional advice.
Here is a 7 step guide to check what’s wrong with your doorbell.
1.    A typical doorbell is made up of a few components: a push button, a bell/chime and a transformer. They usually operate between 6 – 24 volts.
2.    The Transformer is the power source and steps down the voltage from 220/240 volts to 6-24 volts to power the bell/chime.
3.    The push button on the door operates or completes the circuit and energises the bell/chime. Check the power first to determine if it’s broken.
4.    If there is no power ie 220Volts then check the fuse. Remove the power and tighten all the connections and test again.
5.    Still not working? Next test the push button or door bell, remove the two wires and short them together to operate the bell.
6.    If the bell works by shorting the wires together the push button needs replacement, if not the bell mechanism itself is suspect.
7.    At all times the state and quality of the wiring can effect its operation and may also be a cause of failure. So always beware.

If you’re in the greater Dublin area and you need help fixing your doorbell, give me a call:

Alan Rafter (Jobjar): 087 6617271

Leave a comment »

WIRING A PLUG

We’ve all got to start somewhere.  This is a 10 step guide to wiring a plug, aimed at those who’ve been fortunate enough to escape the most basic DIY jobs.  You know who you are.  Bet you’ve got other skills and talents though.

Warning on Wiring: messing around with electricity is dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing.  It is always better to seek professional advice.

1.    You need a flat screwdriver, a strippers and cutters. 1st cut back outside insulation ca 4cm exposing three insulated wires.

plug

2.    Ensure that none of the insulation on the three wires gets cut during the first part of this operation.
3.    The wires are BROWN for Live. BLUE for Neutral and GREEN/YELLOW for Earth. Cut the Brown wire to ca 2cm, the Blue to 3cm.
4.    Remove 1cm of insulation from the three wires and twist the exposed strands with your fingers to prevent them fraying.
5.    Remove the cover from the plug and loosen the three brass screws, also remove the two screws folding the restraining strap.
6.    Place the brown exposed wire in the brass terminal on the right hand side of the plug connected to the fuse, tighten screw.
7.    Place the exposed part of the Blue wire in the terminal on the LHS of the plug and tighten the screw, tight.
8.    Place the Earth wire (Green/Yellow) in the top centre terminal of the plug and tighten, re-tighten the other connections.
9.    Route the wire down the plug, place the Straining strap over the wire covering the outside insulation and tighten.
10.    Again inspect plug for loose or incorrectly connected wire, correct if necessary, then replace cover on plug, test ok.

Leave a comment »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.